French Wildlife

Col des Tentes, Hautes-Pyrénées

Posted by Steve Parr on

13th July 2025

Below the col, the subalpine grasslands are short-grazed and full of wheatears that nest in gullies and low cliffs. Pairs have recently fledged young so the adults frantically try to divert us with rasping calls and bold distraction displays. There is also a range of ringlet Erebia butterfly species including a dazzling brassy ringlet. An online authority suggests that this is common brassy ringlet Erebia cassioides rather than the endemic Pyrenees brassy ringlet Erebia rondoui as the apical spots on the forewings, though touching, are not conflated. Another similar but different species is the Gavarnie ringlet Erebia gorgone, a Pyrenean endemic, which is duller and the post discal band redder than the other two. On such fine margins hangs the identification of many Erebia species. The differentiation of this large, cold-adapted genus has been driven by occupation of distinct glacial refugia through the Quaternary and today, following postglacial range expansions, distantly related Erebia species often coexist, especially on the large mountain ranges such as the Pyrenees.

A wheatear perched on a rock in a grassy field, surrounded by short grass and rocks.
A wheatear bird standing on a rock amidst green grass and yellow wildflowers in a subalpine landscape.
A close-up image of a butterfly perched on a purple flower in a grassy field, with a soft focus background.
A brown butterfly perched on a yellow flower among green grass and foliage.
A brown butterfly with orange spots resting on green grass, surrounded by various small plants.
A brown butterfly resting on rocky ground, surrounded by pebbles and dry grass.
A close-up of a butterfly with green and black wings and orange spots, resting on rocky ground near small pink flowers and green plants.
A butterfly resting on a blue flower surrounded by tall grasses in a subalpine grassland.
Close-up of delicate purple flowers growing in a subalpine grassland, surrounded by green foliage.
Rocky cliffside with alpine flora, featuring clusters of white flowers against a blue sky.
Delicate white flowers emerging from rocky terrain in a subalpine environment.
Close-up of purple alpine flowers growing among rocky terrain, with green grass and stems visible.

At the col, the scenery is spectacular; the car park looks across the glacial valley to a stark mountain range that marks the boundary with Spain and the Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park. The trail runs along the valley side up to the Port de Boucharo (Puerto de Bujaruelo) that sits on the border. The walk is accompanied by busy alpine and red-billed chough flocks, some well fed, tame marmots and the usual diverse alpine flora and insects. The most impressive is the Apollo Parnassius apollo that appears from nowhere, feeds a while then drifts on. This was a first and 10 years since I first looked for them in Montenegro. It is another cold-adapted species that has seen a dramatic range reduction to the highest mountain ranges across Europe due to the warming climate.

A dramatic mountain range with rocky peaks and slopes under a cloudy sky, showcasing rugged terrain and patches of snow.
Dramatic mountain landscape with rugged peaks and snow patches under a cloudy sky.
A chough in flight with a mountainous background.
A chough flying against a clear blue sky, showcasing its distinctive black feathers and bright red beak.
A black bird in flight above subalpine grasslands, with rocks and blooming flowers in the background under a blue sky.
A white butterfly with black spots resting on a thistle amid tall green grasses.
A butterfly resting on a yellow flower surrounded by green leaves and rocky ground.
A cluster of white flowers growing amidst green grass, showcasing delicate petals and a natural alpine setting.
Close-up of white daisies with yellow centers growing among rocky terrain, surrounded by green foliage.

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