The walk from Llangrannog to Cwmtydu runs along a wild coast filled with flowering heather, peregrines and choughs. The only blot on the landscape is an incongruous dry ski slope at the Gwersyll Yr Urdd but this is filled with children enjoying the rush. The elegant peninsula of Ynys Lochtyn runs out into the grey sea. We watch a pair of peregrines chase a third away with spectacular dives and loops in what appears to be a boundary dispute. At Penbryn beach on a hot Sunday, the sea is grey glass and dolphins appear briefly in the bay.